ADOR Operation. How does it work?

With so many thousands ADOR1 and ADOR2 automatic doors out there, we get calls to troubleshoot a problem sometimes, and many times the customer does not understand some of the subtle things or even more functional things.  We hope that this list of notes are helpful. You can call us or text us and we are glad to help, but here is a summary of some things you may want to know.

1. You may be astonished how simple the ADOR is.... it took lots of extra engineering effort to make it simple... Simple working, Reliable, Simple to troubleshoot and maintain.  There is one electronic board, the motor, the simple wire cable, and the battery -- Simple!
2. All the electronics that control the ADOR is on one electronic board.

• The electronic board has a computer chip that runs software and the software can be upgraded by the factory when new revisions become available.
• The board must be screwed in place to function because there is a magnet detector on the board that "looks" through a hole behind it so it can see magnets in the sliding door panel. The magnets serve to limit the door travel so it will stop at the bottom and at the top.
• The user programmable settings are stored in flash memory, so the settings are not "forgotten" by cycling power.  For every "set" there is a corresponding "reset".

2. When the ADOR is powered up, it always starts by beeping out four short beeps, a pause, and two short beeps.  This is "HI" in Morse Code.  The ONLY time it should beep out "HI" is when it is powered-up or power is cycled.

• Next, the ADOR will turn on the LED while it turns on the motor to close the door.  Then if it sees light, the ADOR will open the door.
• The LED flickers about once per second while powering the motor.
• The ADOR always starts out in Automatic Mode.

3. The sliding panel should never stop partially the way down or partially the way up..  If it stops without reaching full open or full closed, the cause could be one of the following:

• Someone stopped it with the pushbutton action.
• An obstacle was in the way.  The ADOR cannot tell the difference between an obstacle, or high friction or some extraneous load on the motor, which appears to the electronics the same as a motor having internal failure.
• The frame or sliding panel, or both, are warped.  This could be because it was bent in shipping, or was dropped during the installation process, or screwed down to a non-flat surface too tight.  Warp can be tested by loosening the four screws under the battery box that hold the motor assembly, scoot the motor away so it is not engaged in the sprocket holes and then get the sliding panel up on your finger and test that you can drop it from the top and catch it at the bottom.  It should drop loosely under gravity -- otherwise, if it is pinched then it is the frame or panel or both.
• It is possible that the motor is starting to fail.  If it starts drawing too much current, the electronics will stop it and reverse direction and try again.  It will re-try twice.
• A component, resistor R2, possibly was damaged on the board.  This would most likely have been caused by a motor that shorted out.  If you mail us your board we can replace R2.
• The sprocket may not be turning on the motor shaft.
• The setscrew may not be tightened down onto the flat part of the motor shaft, sufficiently.
• The sprocket is made of two pieces clinched together.  Possibly the flat piece is spinning freely on the hub.

4. There are two magnets in the right margin of the sliding panel, one near the top and one near the bottom.  When the door slides and one or the other magnet lines up behind the electronic board, the electronics can "see" the magnet.  This provides the function of limiting door travel at the top and bottom.  If the door continues to try to go beyond these limits, check if the magnets are in place.  If one has been lost, it probably is hiding somewhere very close by on the ADOR1... either sliding around on the panel, or hiding behind the box.  You can glue it back in place.  Make sure the electronic board is fastened in place -- it cannot see the magnets if it is not in good position where it is supposed to be.
5. Remember that the ADOR's structure is all galvanized steel.  It won't rust and it should last forever for all practical definitions.  If there's a problem, it is most likely something that can be easily fixed.  If it is beyond the warranty, don't worry because you can purchase parts on the website
6. The ADOR is designed very simply in order to make it simple to maintain.  Even if you have had your unit for 12 years and something is not working right, it may be as simple as replacing the motor and you should be back and running like new.  You should NEVER need to send back anything bigger/heavier than what goes in a bubble mailer.